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Cornwall Weekend Journals: Winter

Travel writer and creator of Weekend Journals, Milly Kenny-Ryder, shares her itinerary for the perfect winter weekend in Cornwall.

19/12/23

I often visited Cornwall in the winter months as a child, because it was a cheaper and calmer time to holiday there. I remember freezing cold coastal walks and comforting pub lunches with my three siblings – all of us kitted out in oversized fleece hoodies!

With the rise of British tourism, Cornwall is bursting at the seams in warmer weather, so I would really recommend a trip in the chillier months – the scenery is just as beautiful, the best hotels and holiday homes have availability, and the sites are much sparser – so you can truly enjoy everything the county has to offer without the crowds.

STAY

If you don’t fancy travelling the whole length of Cornwall for a Cornish minibreak Coombeshead Farm is a great option, just minutes over the Devon-Cornwall border. Owned by Pitt Cue’s co-founder Tom Adams and New York-based chef April Bloomfield, Coombeshead Farm is very much based around a love of food – the restaurant serves a four-course set sharing menu with the option of adding extra snacks and cheese, and those staying can also opt for a picnic experience to enjoy on a walk nearby. The Georgian farmhouse has been designed by Ali Childs, thoughtful antique touches combine with luxurious modern amenities.

EAT

Crocadon Farm is one of the most exciting farm-to-table restaurants in the UK right now, Dan Cox has worked relentlessly to make this farm almost entirely self-sufficient and is a true leader and innovator in sustainability. With experience working in some of the country’s best kitchens it isn’t surprising that his tasting menu here wows in flavour and aesthetics.

I am a bakery addict, so I was so excited to visit newbie Gorse Bakery earlier this year. This artisan bakery is a departure from the classic Cornish pasty, making beautiful viennoisserie and sourdough bread, alongside expertly poured speciality coffee. Join the queue at the weekend and try their delicious seasonal Danish pastries.

DRINK

After a long winter’s walk there is nothing better than a drink by the fire in a cosy pub. We love the The Gurnard's Head, a striking mustard yellow pub near Zennor. Join the locals for a drink at the bar or get comfy in the civilised dining room for a delicious roast. There are also a few bedrooms upstairs, for those wishing to stay.

SEE

The Mên-an-Tol is a small formation of standing stones near Madron in Cornwall. It is known locally as the “Crick Stone” this ancient rock formation has a magical feel, and it a lovely place to wander on a dry day.

DO

Tate St Ives is now open year-round, and winter is the best time to visit with far less tourists. The iconic gallery recently underwent a huge renovation and extension and holds a wonderful permanent collection of modern and contemporary art, often created in or associated with Cornwall.

While in St Ives I recommend popping into the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden too, offering an insight into one of the UK’s leading female sculptors of the 20th century.

Find more suggestions for exploring the best of Cornwall in Milly's Weekend Journals Cornwall book, available here. Find her on Instagram @millykr and @weekendjournals.

Written by Milly Kenny-Ryder

Milly Kenny-Ryder is a travel writer and food photographer. She is the editor of thoroughlymodernmilly.com and writes travel guides with her company Weekend Journals.

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